www.casinocenter.com
Subscribe to CPArchives
Index - AC Spotlight - Seven Days of Buffets - Net Watch - Never Assume - Mystery Tourist - Loosest Slots Awards
Exploring the highs and lows of Vegas’ most enduring culinary institution
by Melissa Cook
Sterling Brunch, Bally's
Wouldn’t it be funny if…” I dread these words coming out of my editor’s mouth during story planning meetings. I’ve known him long enough to recognize his warped sense of humor. And somehow, the joke is always on me.

“Wouldn’t it be funny if,” he continued, “you went to a different buffet for breakfast, lunch and dinner…”

OK, that’s not so bad. I can do that…
“…every day for a week.”
Like I said. Warped.

I knew this wasn’t a question. This meant “you’re going to go to a different buffet, for breakfast, lunch and dinner, every day for a week.”
“And then what?” I asked him.
“And then,” he said with a grin, “you’ll write about it.”

There was merit to his suggestion. After all, buffets have been a Las Vegas tradition since the Showboat tacked one on to bingo and bowling nearly five decades ago. For some tourists, an all-you-can-eat binge makes the vacation. Vegas just wouldn’t be Vegas without those miles and miles of peeled shrimp, prime rib and fried chicken legs. But many would be surprised to discover that the venerable old buffet is being rehashed, right along with the modern megaresorts and sophisticated approaches to tourism. The old-fashioned cheap feasts are slowly disappearing, being replaced by upscale, pricey, “action” buffets.
Every day. But for a week? That’s 21 buffets.

I took a deep breath, and wondered how I was going to explain this one to my husband—who, by God, was going to do this with me.

Day 1
Breakfast
Circus Circus
$4.99, served until 11:30 AM

I chose to start my buffet adventure at the loudest, brightest casino on the Strip, the butt of every stand-up comic’s buffet jokes. Blurry-eyed from lack of coffee, I glanced up at the enormous neon clown and shuddered before venturing into the property.

Primary Crayola colors is the hallmark of Circus Circus. The casino was the first to cater to the family crowd, back before anyone even thought of bringing a child to Vegas, with its carnival midway, high-wire acts, indoor amusement park and low- to mid-range gambling for budget-conscious tourists.

Once upon a time, the buffet at Circus was considered one of the worst in town. But just as Circus morphed into Mandalay Resorts, so, too, did the buffet undergo a dramatic rebirth, with a new look and a new approach. Even before the renovation, the breakfast buffet was a word-of-mouth favorite, as much for its hearty selections as for its low, low price. Here was a buffet with some history.

Yet the new buffet is surprisingly subdued, borrowing more from Cirque du Soleil than Barnum & Bailey. Mind you, I’m not complaining. Earth tones and painted murals provide pleasant backdrops, though for some reason, they chose to go bold with the carpet—a dizzying, multi-colored swirling affair that serves as a reminder that you’re not at Bellagio. Smokers and non-smokers have their own dedicated buffet, and the lines move quickly around the food.

Breakfast has always been my favorite meal. I’ve been known to eat it around the clock. So when I saw trays of biscuits and gravy, breakfast burritos, blintzes, pancakes, waffles and French toast, I was thrilled. And it was all quite tasty. I demolished a plate of goodies, then went back for some scrambled eggs, a slice of carved ham, and a bite-sized cinnamon roll for dessert.

For $4.99, it’s a value that’s tough to beat. Even with the clown.

Lunch
The Great Buffet, Sam’s Town
$6.99, served 11 AM to 3 PM

Right away, I knew I had messed up. There’s precious little time between a full breakfast and lunch, and after gorging myself on biscuits and gravy at Circus Circus, I knew I’d have to pace myself. Easier said than done, though. When you’re confronted with endless amounts of good food, you’re brain whispers, “just one more bite.”

Sam’s Town is primarily a locals casino, so I expected to find very good food, and lots of it. Locals place a lot of importance on satisfying, inexpensive food, and I knew Sam’s Town wouldn’t let me down.

The surroundings were pleasant enough. The Great Buffet features a garden theme, with pale yellow and teal setting off planters of silk flowers that make no attempt to look real.

The menu, I was told, changes every day, but you can always count on down-home country cooking. Candied yams, turnip greens, pork chops, catfish and baked Virginia ham at the carving station were just a few of the choices. Corn figures in heavily here, with cornbread, corn muffins, and cornbread stuffing scattered through the line-up. Though it’s not an action buffet, it does offer an Oriental stir-fry (you pick your veggies, and they fry them up for you), and hamburgers are cooked to order.

But it’s the dessert station that will do you in. At the Great Buffet, they make their own candy, right there in front of you. Peanut brittle, fudge, caramel apples, pies and pastries. My brain stopped whispering and started screaming: “It’s an apple, you fool! You have room for an apple!”

My husband, who had wisely taken a single bite of peanut brittle, had to roll me out.
Continued on...

Sterling Brunch
Bally's
The Great Buffet, Sam's Town
The Great Buffet
Sam's Town
The Feast, Sunset Station
The Feast
Sunset Station
AC Spotlight
Seven Days of Buffets
Net Watch
Never Assume
Mystery Tourist
Loosest Slots Awards

Index -
Click Here To Subscribe
www.casinocenter.com