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Exploring the highs and lows of Vegas most enduring culinary institution
by Melissa Cook |
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Wouldnt it be funny if
I dread these words coming out of my editors mouth during story planning meetings. Ive known him long enough to recognize his warped sense of humor. And somehow, the joke is always on me.
Wouldnt it be funny if, he continued, you went to a different buffet for breakfast, lunch and dinner
OK, thats not so bad. I can do that
I knew this wasnt a question. This meant youre going to go to a different buffet, for breakfast, lunch and dinner, every day for a week. There was merit to his suggestion. After all, buffets have been a Las Vegas tradition since the Showboat tacked one on to bingo and bowling nearly five decades ago. For some tourists, an all-you-can-eat binge makes the vacation. Vegas just wouldnt be Vegas without those miles and miles of peeled shrimp, prime rib and fried chicken legs. But many would be surprised to discover that the venerable old buffet is being rehashed, right along with the modern megaresorts and sophisticated approaches to tourism. The old-fashioned cheap feasts are slowly disappearing, being replaced by upscale, pricey, action buffets. I took a deep breath, and wondered how I was going to explain this one to my husbandwho, by God, was going to do this with me. I chose to start my buffet adventure at the loudest, brightest casino on the Strip, the butt of every stand-up comics buffet jokes. Blurry-eyed from lack of coffee, I glanced up at the enormous neon clown and shuddered before venturing into the property. Primary Crayola colors is the hallmark of Circus Circus. The casino was the first to cater to the family crowd, back before anyone even thought of bringing a child to Vegas, with its carnival midway, high-wire acts, indoor amusement park and low- to mid-range gambling for budget-conscious tourists. Once upon a time, the buffet at Circus was considered one of the worst in town. But just as Circus morphed into Mandalay Resorts, so, too, did the buffet undergo a dramatic rebirth, with a new look and a new approach. Even before the renovation, the breakfast buffet was a word-of-mouth favorite, as much for its hearty selections as for its low, low price. Here was a buffet with some history. Yet the new buffet is surprisingly subdued, borrowing more from Cirque du Soleil than Barnum & Bailey. Mind you, Im not complaining. Earth tones and painted murals provide pleasant backdrops, though for some reason, they chose to go bold with the carpeta dizzying, multi-colored swirling affair that serves as a reminder that youre not at Bellagio. Smokers and non-smokers have their own dedicated buffet, and the lines move quickly around the food. Breakfast has always been my favorite meal. Ive been known to eat it around the clock. So when I saw trays of biscuits and gravy, breakfast burritos, blintzes, pancakes, waffles and French toast, I was thrilled. And it was all quite tasty. I demolished a plate of goodies, then went back for some scrambled eggs, a slice of carved ham, and a bite-sized cinnamon roll for dessert. For $4.99, its a value thats tough to beat. Even with the clown. Lunch Right away, I knew I had messed up. Theres precious little time between a full breakfast and lunch, and after gorging myself on biscuits and gravy at Circus Circus, I knew Id have to pace myself. Easier said than done, though. When youre confronted with endless amounts of good food, youre brain whispers, just one more bite. Sams Town is primarily a locals casino, so I expected to find very good food, and lots of it. Locals place a lot of importance on satisfying, inexpensive food, and I knew Sams Town wouldnt let me down. The surroundings were pleasant enough. The Great Buffet features a garden theme, with pale yellow and teal setting off planters of silk flowers that make no attempt to look real. The menu, I was told, changes every day, but you can always count on down-home country cooking. Candied yams, turnip greens, pork chops, catfish and baked Virginia ham at the carving station were just a few of the choices. Corn figures in heavily here, with cornbread, corn muffins, and cornbread stuffing scattered through the line-up. Though its not an action buffet, it does offer an Oriental stir-fry (you pick your veggies, and they fry them up for you), and hamburgers are cooked to order. But its the dessert station that will do you in. At the Great Buffet, they make their own candy, right there in front of you. Peanut brittle, fudge, caramel apples, pies and pastries. My brain stopped whispering and started screaming: Its an apple, you fool! You have room for an apple! My husband, who had wisely taken a single bite of peanut brittle, had to roll me out. |
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| Sterling Brunch Bally's |
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| The Great Buffet Sam's Town |
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| The Feast Sunset Station |
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