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Best
Gourmet Restaurant
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Las
Vegas
When it came to Manhattan in the anything goes, three-martini Eighties,
nowhere were the legends more legendary and the beautiful people more
visible than at Le Cirque, Sirio Maccioni’s circus-frescoed
landmark at the Mayfair Hotel on E. 65th St. Now located at the Sultan
of Brunei’s New York Palace Hotel on E. 50th St., the new Le Cirque
2000 traded in its ‘80s insolence for dynamic millennial intensity,
in an Adam Tihany-designed interior that is as bold, daring and creative
as the menu itself.
Le Cirque at Bellagio is somewhat more reminiscent of the original Le
Cirque than the current incarnation at the New York Palace. Take away
Tihany’s design, and you’ll find a small restaurant, difficult
to land a reservation at, the tables too close together, the guests
well-heeled and accomplished, but obviously at the apex of the food
scene in its city.
So what can you expect from such a place? Plenty. To start at the end,
there is the legendary crème brûlée, a dessert that
has become inseparable from Sirio Maccioni, and a point of contention
for foodies across the country. There is the “paupiette” of
black sea bass in crispy potatoes with braised leeks and barolo sauce,
and the “black tie” sea scallops, layered with black truffles
and wrapped in spinach and puff pastry. There is the lobster risotto
and foie gras, lamb filet mignon with crushed Yukon gold potatoes, and
perfect roast chicken with black truffles under the crispy skin, served
with porcini mushrooms and roasted potatoes. And there is the wine list,
not as extensive as New York’s, but still a duly impressive collection.
There is also the magnificent view of Bellagio’s lake and fountains,
so impressive at night if luck lands you a window table. It is, perhaps,
the only thing that can distract from Tihany’s design.
Atlantic
City
Scheherazade at the Taj Mahal is an exquisite restaurant that
glows soft pink and amber. It’s like being inside the dining room
of an ancient palace, or perhaps inside Barbara Eden’s “Jeannie”
bottle. The tables are strewn with tiny gold stars, and service is from
white-gloved pashas who cater to every guest.
Food quality and presentation is superb, with no details overlooked.
Start with escargot and leek strudel served with wild mushrooms in a
cabernet sauce, roasted quail stuffed with sweet potato risotto and
served on buttery foie gras, or the pan-fried lobster ravioli with sweet
corn marmalade. Entrees include a crispy roasted filet of Chilean sea
bass with orzo and acorn squash sauce, roasted chicken with a tomato
and Kalamata olive ragout, or the house special sautéed lamb
chops. Pure bliss from start to finish.
Tunica
If Tunica isn’t a gourmet paradise (like Las Vegas), it nonetheless
offers a surprisingly varied group of restaurants. Of these, the best
are to be found at the Horseshoe, particularly this year’s “Best
Gourmet Restaurant,” Jack Binion’s Steakhouse. Don’t
be deceived by its beefy name; this is most definitely a first-class
gourmet room, with marvelous English clubhouse decor and such superb
entrees as duck a la orange, Dover sole, and, naturally, a wide variety
of prime steaks. Starters include a must-have grilled shrimp cocktail,
served with wilted greens and a spicy Cajun remoulade sauce.
Gulf
Coast
Beau Rivage’s top gourmet room is this stunning seafood restaurant,
the aptly-named Coral. Each of the four walls is a massive, 10,000-gallon
saltwater aquarium, for a total of 40,000 gallons of fish tanks—
about
the size of a large, in-ground pool. The coral in the tanks are all
man-made and hand painted, creating a display of artistry that is like
underwater Impressionism. The tanks teem with thousands of tropical
fish and sharks, creating a mesmerizing background for the dining experience.
A sophisticated menu features excellent presentations of local seafood,
using such complementary ingredients as morels, foie gras, English peas
and intensely flavored reductions, along with a well-chosen wine list
that naturally focuses on whites.
Laughlin
No one really knows about this little gem of a dining room at the Pioneer,
though it’s been around for almost as long as Laughlin has. Even
with a name as homespun as Granny’s, you’ll find a
surprisingly sophisticated Continental menu, with steaks, lobster, veal
and poultry. The atmosphere here is congenially elegant, with high-back
chairs, intimate booths, and incredibly friendly service, plus the laid-back
casualness that Laughlin—and especially the Pioneer—is known
for. A fantastic Sunday Brunch, too. Just whose granny is this?
Reno
The Eldorado’s Bistro Roxy is a Parisian-style bistro with
contemporary American influences. Bistro Roxy neighbors the magnificent
Fountain of Fortune, with outdoor cafe tables almost jutting up against
it, and showcases seven exterior and interior architectural styles,
creating an enchanting European village atmosphere. The creative menu
includes wood-roasted meats and fish and delicious country breads that
are prepared in an exhibition kitchen and bakery. Bistro Roxy also boasts
the best wine list in Reno, with more than 350 vintages, and offers
102 rotating martinis in its deco-inspired martini bar. Definitely at
the top of Reno’s restaurant offerings.
Lake
Tahoe
With its exquisite cuisine, relaxed townhouse setting and incredible
views of Lake Tahoe and the Sierra Nevada, The Summit restaurant
is the brightest gem in Harrah’s dining crown. The Summit is actually
housed in a converted suite on the 16th floor, with nightly piano music
and a wonderful cocktail lounge. Start with the berry marinated quail
on tossed greens or the eggplant and smoked salmon roulade with chervil.
From there, move on to the Oriental duck soup with a hoisin confit crepe,
or stick closer to home with a tomato consommé drizzled with
pesto. Entrees include venison medallions with melted brie and blackberries,
individual Beef Wellington with truffle Madeira sauce, or veal scaloppini
with a porcini mushroom and sweetbread ragout. Simply flawless, from
start to finish.
Riverboats
The Alexandria Steakhouse at Empress Joliet is such a hidden
surprise, you’ll be shocked when you find it. The masterful Egyptian
theme out-Luxors the Luxor, with stone-styled walls, palm trees, temple
columns and winding, candle-lit steps that lead up to the wine cellar.
The focus is naturally on steaks and chops, but there are plenty of
creative entrees to choose from. The wine list is surprisingly good,
too. This is an unexpected sleeper that more people should get to know.
Native
American
Long considered the finest restaurant in Mississippi, Phillip M’s,
named for Chief Phillip Martin, tribal chairman of the Mississippi Band
of Choctaw Indians, has the state’s most extensive wine list and
a gourmet menu that absolutely astonishes—particularly out here
in rural, central Mississippi. In fact, all of the Silver Star is surprisingly
upscale. If you’re in the area, or making the drive from Tunica
to the Gulf Coast, a stopover at the Silver Star is well worth a visit—especially
if dinner at Phillip M’s is part of the plan.
Best
Steakhouse
Las
Vegas
Traditional steakhouse fare is treated with Southwestern flare at The
Range at Harrah’s. Grilled-to-order steaks are served with
an interesting mix of unique sauces and chilies, and bagel chips and
salsa are brought to the table when guests are seated. In addition to
the excellent surf and turf, The Range offers one of the best dining
atmospheres in Vegas. Though the use of rich, heavy wood is a staple
of steakhouse decor, The Range details it with ranch-style brands. And
you can’t beat the view. Every ight, as the sun goes down, the
blinds on enormous picture windows are lifted, revealing the glittering
Strip in all its glory. Adjacent to the restaurant is the wonderful
Range piano bar, a decidedly chic place to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail.
If you’re a fan of martinis, be sure to ask for the vanilla one,
a signature mix at the bar.
Atlantic
City
Carnivorous fantasies come true at the Taj Mahal’s Safari Steakhouse.
The room is dominated by a giant, drooping banyon tree decked in sparkling
white lights, and is decorated with zebra-striped and leopard-spotted
fabrics that provide plenty of African whimsy. Apart from the slightly
comedic design, the Safari Steakhouse has an extremely accomplished
menu, with a separate listing of dry-aged beef in addition to the steaks,
chops, duck and veal. Every dish is accompanied by a wonderful selection
of choice sauces and side dishes, including roasted, caramelized Vidalia
onions, sautéed wild mushrooms, mashed potatoes infused with
garlic and shallots, and thick steak fries. For all the subtle comedy,
Safari is a surprisingly sophisticated steakhouse.
Tunica
& Gulf Coast
Grand Casinos’ three signature LB’s Steakhouses, named
for Grand Casinos founder Lyle Berman, are all masculine, clubby restaurants,
with excellent beef grilled in exhibition kitchens, and the usual steakhouse
treatments of seafood (particularly crab legs). These are arguably the
best steakhouses in the industry, winning our annual awards for “Best
Steakhouse” in both Tunica (at Grand Casino Tunica) and on the
Gulf Coast (at Grand Casino Biloxi). The Tunica outlet is possibly the
best of the three, but only by a small margin—a significant feather
in Tunica’s cap has been a renewed focus on the wine list. But
as far as the food is concerned, you can’t go wrong at any of these
great steakhouses.
Laughlin
The William Fisk Steakhouse at Harrah’s Laughlin is one
of only a handful of fine dining restaurants in Laughlin, but like all
things on the River, it’s very casual. Full-length windows offer
a commanding view of the river and Bullhead City, creating a lovely
backdrop as the sun sets. Appetizers include a not-for-the-timid blackened
shrimp cocktail, served with an equally spicy remoulade sauce. Of course,
steaks are what this place is all about, but the menu has plenty of
diversity for the less carnivorously inclined. A relatively limited
wine list is more than compensated for by efficient service and a friendly
waitstaff. Request a window table in advance—they’re worth
the wait.
Reno
Hidden away a floor below the casino action, The Steakhouse at
Harrah’s Reno looks like one of the old Vegas restaurants that
has been closed, removed or blown away in a cloud of dust. That’s
a compliment for this restaurant, with its oh-so-dark, low-ceilinged
room, dim chandeliers and gilt lamps. The menu is current, but the rest
of it might as well be the mobbed-up Fifties. Start with ravioli filled
with chicken mousse, and then prepare yourself for a 24-ounce Angus
Rib Eye, pan seared and served with Béarnaise sauce tinted pink
by the addition of tomato puree. Top sirloin is marinated in ginger
and sake, and chicken breast is stuffed with lobster. Buy a box of homemade
truffles to take home with you.
Lake
Tahoe
The popular Friday’s Station at Harrah’s Lake Tahoe
is presently being redesigned and renovated, with plans to include a
new state-of-the-art kitchen and all new furniture and fixtures. This
new Friday’s will offer enhanced views from every table and a dramatic
new entrance featuring a large glassed-in wine cellar and a spectacular
display of vintage wines. Until the renovation is complete, Friday’s
Grill is operating in the space formerly occupied by Cafe Andreotti
on the casino level, featuring signature steaks and seafood specialties
from the original Friday’s Station menu.
Riverboats
Whether this version of Jack Binion’s Steakhouse is better
than its Tunica cousin is a purely subjective matter, but the fact that
this restaurant received its award in the “Best Steakhouse”
category (instead of “Best Gourmet”) gives some indication
of the difference. Here, an exhibition kitchen allows guests to watch
soaring pillars of fire while their steaks are cooked. Those facing
the other direction can enjoy an impressive view of the Shreveport waterfront,
with its river traffic and distant business towers. Best of all is the
beautiful cocktail lounge just off the entrance, with clubby leather
seats, wood paneling, antique furniture and volumes of old books. And,
oh yes, those steaks are mouth-watering. Jack Binion definitely knows
his steakhouses.
Native
American
Foxwoods’ Cedars Steakhouse is a casual place, with hunter
green rugs, dark wood trim and large picture windows overlooking the
crowds. The comfortable decor belies the excellent menu, which features
a vast variety of well-prepared entrees, often accompanied by some extremely
creative daily specials. On a recent trip, salmon was bathed in citrus
and fennel, and a New York Strip was topped with grilled shrimp, placed
on creamy rice, then lowered onto a pool of tomato sauce and garnished
with a portobello mushroom, which had been broiled with three cheeses.
Two standout appetizers are the spicy Cajun grilled shrimp and the mile-high
mushrooms, which are pillars of savory sausage, bread crumbs and Parmesan
cheese rising from a grilled mushroom cap. Steaks are best served on
their own, but grilled, bone-in veal chops benefit from the addition
of crab meat, asparagus and cream sauce. Shaved onions doused in Jack
Daniels barbecue sauce are available on the side, as are most of the
traditional steakhouse accompaniments.
Best
Italian
Las
Vegas
The newly-redesigned Antonio’s at the Rio is a subtle improvement
over the original. Gone are the large antipasto cart and overly-bright
decor, replaced with a more refined, bistro-like setting, an exhibition
kitchen, and a terrific bar at the entrance. Of course, the food is
still stand-out, with plenty of attention to pastas of all shapes, sizes
and sauces, and grilled meats in the Tuscan style. A solid wine list
and bags of breadsticks round out this long-time winner of Casino Player’s
“Best Italian” restaurant.
Atlantic
City
As far as
Casino Player readers are concerned, Medici at the Sands is the
best Italian in town. With its Renaissance decor and table of antipasti
tempting guests before they even sit down, the stage is set for a meal
of abundance. But what surprises the palate, and truly sets this Italian
choice above the others, is the creativity so obviously employed throughout
the menu, particularly with the daily specials. The pappardelle with
wild mushrooms, olive oil and parmesan cheese makes a marvelous starter
(all pastas can be split or ordered in half orders). There’s also
a beautiful porcini pasta with sausage and peas. Chicken breasts are
finished with artichokes, capers, white wine and lemon juice, grilled
with portobello mushrooms in Balsamic vinegar, topped with crabmeat
and asparagus, or served with a simple bruschetta. Pork loin is rolled
and seasoned with garlic, capers, pine nuts and tomatoes, in the Pugliese
style.
Gulf
Coast
La Cucina Italiana at Beau Rivage is a large, country-like room
with bright tile mosaics, baskets, and sunflowers, all dominated by
a large exhibition kitchen located right in the center of the restaurant.
The menu offers a good variety of grilled and roasted Italian fare,
but the breads and pizzas from the wood-burning oven are the stand-outs.
Laughlin
Looking like a set design from a Brooklyn mob movie, Passaggio
at the Ramada Express is everything you imagine a traditional Italian
restaurant should be: Red and white checkered tablecloths, bottles of
wine, a colored tile counter displaying marinated salads, jars of grated
Parmesan on every table. Surprisingly good food is served in ridiculously
large portions, with a special focus on giant bowls of pasta (and those
addictive breadsticks with a trio of dipping sauces). Reserve early
for the excellent Sunday Champagne Brunch.
Reno
Set in the al fresco theme of an Italian countryside villa, lucky La
Strada guests delight in entrees featuring homemade pastas, choice
cuts of meat, fresh fish, authentic Italian dishes and a super wine
list. Atmosphere and cuisine blend at this Eldorado stunner to create
a Northern Italian dining experience that is simply unparalleled. Try
the porcini mushroom ravioli, the wonderful homemade pastas, or the
“home-cooking” specials when available, such as the sublime
brasato. Always a winner.
Lake
Tahoe
Because the “al fresco” dining tables of Primavera spill over
to the lush indoor pool, the smell of chlorine can occasionally rankle
a sensitive nose—but that’s a minor detail in this otherwise
lovely restaurant at Caesars. Northern Italian cuisine is the specialty
here, but as good as the food is, the setting—especially in the
evening when candles and torches are lit—is truly remarkable.
Native
American
Foxwoods’ Al Dente is a lovely, high-end Italian restaurant, an
oasis of civility one floor below the chaos of the largest casino in
the world. The beautiful decor is jewel-colored and slightly surreal,
with mixed mosaics, wood trim and a painted sunburst ceiling. The menu
offers a wide range of pastas (which are also available as starters),
including bucatini carbonara, gnocchi with pesto and a daily risotto.
Osso bucco is a favorite, as is the grilled bone-in veal chop served
with marinara and mozzarella. Can’t make up your mind? Have the
twin medallions of filet, topped with crab meat and garlicky risotto.
Best
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