Let's face it, Vegas is not a town built on foie gras. The history of this desert playground is one of cheap rooms, cheap food and all-night stints at the craps tables. No one came to Vegas to dine, unless it was comped, and then only to pass the time before getting back to those other tables.

Yet Vegas has always marketed its food, as much to draw attention to itself as to establish its inherent difference from the rest of America. One of the best known publicity photos from the bygone era shows a showgirl frying two eggs on the blistering Strip in the height of summer. Later on, surf-and-turf specials, two-buck steak dinners, prime rib buffets and 99-cent shrimp cocktails would be the extent of Vegas food marketing-and, indeed, those things are still available.

There were exceptions, of course. Restaurants that have since entered the realm of legend, alongside the hotels that exist only on postcards. There were the blue martinis at the Sultan's Table and the mermaid harpist at the Dome of the Sea, both at the Dunes. There was the beautiful Sabre Room at the Aladdin, the Regency Room at the Sands and the Monte Carlo Room at the Desert Inn. Add the exquisite Palace Court and the theatrical Bacchanal to that list, two historic restaurants that recently fell to renovations at Caesars Palace. Even the new wave of star chefs has seen its own spectacular failure, with the closing of the poorly conceived Charlie Trotter's at the MGM Grand.

But these restaurants were exceptions. By and large, the food history of Las Vegas is one of culinary mediocrity, more famous for the dubious all-you-can-eat buffet than for anything suggesting a hint of haute. And this would be the case until Steve Wynn raised the bar on luxury with the development of The Mirage, and Wolfgang Puck brought Spago to the newly opened Forum Shops at Caesars Palace. The combination of these two events heralded the New Age of Las Vegas, and with its megaresorts and Broadway shows came a new focus on dining that had simply never existed before.

To be sure, every hotel worth its casino has a coffee shop, steakhouse and buffet (except New York-New York and Venetian, which opened without buffets). Their quality of food is generally reflected in the quality of the property-cheap hotels have cheap food. The major exception here are the Vegas "locals casinos," which tend to have higher quality food and beverage at lower prices than their tourist counterparts.

This list isn't about those restaurants, although you'll find two stand-out buffets that deserved to be mentioned for their innovation and quality. Rather, this list is about the best Las Vegas has to offer. These are the 50 restaurants that have made it, quite remarkably, one of the culinary hotspots of the country. It's also a guide to help you sort through the endless list of names that will bombard you from the moment you get off the plane.

For the most part, these are all expensive restaurants. Don't expect bargains on this list. And while Vegas is known for its casual approach to all things entertaining, some of these places do have dress codes. And at the star chef restaurants, particularly at places like Bellagio, Venetian, MGM Grand, Mandalay Bay and the Rio, you'll definitely need to make reservations.

So get away from the other tables, at least for a few hours, and get a taste of the New Las Vegas.

Andre's, Monte Carlo

Long considered the patriarch of the Las Vegas food scene (even before it had a scene), Chef Andre Rochat has enjoyed exclusivity among the Vegas food elite like no others. His little country house French restaurant just off 6th St. near the downtown business district has been popular with locals and tourists for 20 years, and still remains high on the top of food lists for diners in the know. His classic French cuisine is always flawless, and his wine list is legendary.

At the invitation of Monte Carlo execs, Rochat opened his second restaurant at the Beaux Arts-themed hotel, an intimate dining room seating 50, with Renaissance-inspired decor that evokes a French country chateau. The fireplace, painted ceilings, fresh flowers and Versace china all add to the feeling of refined opulence. A winding marble staircase leads to three private dining rooms and the Louis XVI Salon, where guests may conclude their meal with a snifter of fine cognac and a cigar from the stocked humidor.

Andre's classic French menu changes seasonally, but expect to find foie gras, tuna tartare, Dover sole, Provimi veal, Muscovy duck breast and several presentations of lobster on the menu year round. Call in advance to see if you might be in town for one of his exclusive winemaker dinners.

	Aqua, Bellagio

Aqua, Bellagio

The idea of fabulous fish in the Mojave Desert sounds ludicrous, but Chef Michael Mina, of the popular Aqua in San Francisco, flies his seafood in daily. And oh, what fish it is! Nothing but fish on the menu, in fact. Well, almost. From simple and austere presentations of lobster and scallops to the incredibly rich stack of ahi tuna, foie gras and fried potato cake, surrounded by a velvety port reduction.

The restaurant is tucked away next to Bellagio's Conservatory, and has a lovely bar where you may choose to eat, since reservations are tough to come by. This is a high-energy place, with gorgeous, honey-colored wood, expensive tile and canvas lamps that cast a golden glow on the tables. The five-course tasting menu with accompanying wines is one of the most remarkable dining experiences in the city.

Aureole, Mandalay Bay

Chef Charlie Palmer's extraordinary "progressive American" food has survived the transition from Manhattan to Las Vegas, but the new Adam Tihany-designed interior is so far away from the flower-filled townhouse on New York's Upper East Side, you won't believe it's the same restaurant. With its 42-foot wine tower and multiple dining rooms, including the al fresco Swan Court, this Aureole impresses long before the first dish is served.

Palmer's cuisine is simple but sublime, with levels of complexity that surprise and tantalize. A spicy tuna tartare appetizer is served with a cucumber relish that incorporates seaweed and black sesame; oak-smoked salmon is placed on a bed of lentils and finished with salmon mousse and a corn cake; and the divine sea scallops, plucked from the ocean bed by trained divers, are wrapped in potato crusts and served with a citrus reduction. Entrees may include a pan-seared veal mignon with honey roasted figs and a caramelized onion potato puree with Cabernet sauce, or a rosemary roasted lamb loin with a braised shank crepe, served with morels and English peas. As in New York, gravity-defying desserts tower over the plate, whether it's a roasted banana bread pudding or a plum and sweet polenta galette.

Border Grill, Mandalay Bay

Those "Too Hot Tamales," Susan Fenniger and Mary Sue Milliken, well known to LA residents and TV Food Network addicts, bring their creative interpretations of Mexican cuisine to Mandalay Bay, in a vibrant, beach-side setting that goes perfectly with their bold and spicy food.

According to Gourmet, Border Grill is the "waterfront café you never managed to find in Mazatlan." The decor of the main dining room may be a bit too fiesta-inspired for some, but the patio under the palms is dreamy. Appetizers include must-have fresh mashed guacamole, plantain empañadas and "panuchos," little black bean-stuffed tortillas topped with achiote citrus chicken, pickled onions and avocado. The garlicky skirt steak entree is a must for beef lovers, as is the traditional "ropa vieja," a Cuban lamb stew. The pan-seared halibut with caramelized pearl onions, jalapeños, Kalamata olives and fresh oregano and garlic broth is perfect for fish lovers.

For a quick bite, Border Grill's take-out tacqueria is just a few steps away from the beach, and bathing suits are welcome at the casual cantina tables.

Buzio's, Rio

With its airy design, wood floors and windows overlooking Rio's extensive pool area, Buzio's feels like an exclusive cabana, the sort of place you'd find in an upscale beach resort. The restaurant serves all variety of fresh seafood, but the real winners here are the giant bowls of steamed clams and mussels, served with a bottomless basket of fresh sourdough bread to sop up the juices. Pan roasts are also popular, and the wine list has a great variety of whites from all over the world to compliment the menu selections. Solo diners will enjoy Buzio's raw bar and its extensive list of wines by the glass.

Charlie Palmer Steak, The Four Seasons at Mandalay Bay

Sublime and refined, Aureole Chef Charlie Trotter took over the lackluster Grill Room just off the lobby of the ultra-posh (and nearly unknown) Four Seasons. This is a hotel-within-a-hotel concept; the Four Seasons is actually comprised of several floors of Mandalay Bay, with entirely separate facilities (which means you don't deal with the crowds, the casino or crowded elevators-the Four Season has its own). Charlie Palmer Steak isn't Aureole, but its marvelous presentations are wonderful. Coupled with the quiet exclusivity of Vegas' most hidden steakhouse, not to mention a great wine list, this place is a winner.

China Grill, Mandalay Bay

Mandalay Bay's China Grill is imbued with a sort of high-energy techno-funk that seems to be something of a design rage here in Las Vegas at the end (or is it the beginning?) of the millennium. Diners are seated in a soaring, almost pagoda-like setting, with swirling ceiling lights, dancing video images and an exhibition kitchen framed by what seem like enormous bamboo curtains. A covered Chinese bridge with a fiber optic water lily garden leads into the place, and there's a great lounge just outside the main dining room.

Food receives communal, if not militant, treatment. Dishes are brought to the table when they're ready, period. It's done, you eat. Dishes are also expected to be shared by everyone at the table, preferably with chopsticks, but concessions are made. It's an unusual way of eating, great with friends, but potentially awkward among strangers.

Thus forewarned, you'll find the food sublime. The complex menu tends a bit to the "world cuisine" trend, but preparations and flavors are distinctly Chinese. Expect such enticing dishes as lamb spareribs, dry-aged soy-infused beef, lobster and shiitake bolognese risotto (huh?), lobster mashed potatoes and crispy duck, always with artful, unusual sauces. Definitely not your grandma's take-out Chinese restaurant.

Chinois, The Forum Shops at Caesars

Wolfgang Puck's second restaurant at the Forum Shops opened in late 1997, as part of an expansion that literally doubled the size of the popular mall. But unlike Spago, Puck's revolutionary restaurant, Chinois is a bit more serene, eclectic and true to its Asian roots. The restaurant is almost environmental, with its bamboo walls, antique Chinese artifacts and watery murals. There's also a sushi bar on the ground floor level for fast snacks and California rolls, imperative between shopping jaunts. Go for the noodle dishes, the whole sizzling catfish, the lobster with coconut curry sauce, or the sesame-crusted pork loin.

Commander's Palace, Aladdin

The most historic restaurant in the country, the 120-year-old Commander's Palace makes its way to Vegas in the city's newest casino, the Aladdin. Long known as the New Orleans flagship of the powerful Brennan restaurant family, Commander's Palace is a bastion of elegant, refined Creole food, set in a rambling old house with an endless number of dining rooms. This is where Emeril Lagasse honed his skills for seven years before branching out on his own. The mantle is currently worn by Jamie Shannon, who started under Emeril as a saucier in 1984 and has worked his way up to the top spot in the kitchen. How well the Commander's Palace will make the transition remains to be seen, since its opening is so recent. But with the power duo of Jamie Shannon and Ella Brennan at the helm, you can bet Commander's Palace will easily take its place among the city's restaurant elite.

Coyote Café & Grill Room, MGM Grand

Mark Miller's foray into Las Vegas is really two restaurants-there's the brash, funky Coyote Café outside, and the deliciously earthy Grill Room tucked behind the Coyote. Both places exemplify Miller's interpretations of American Southwestern and Mexican cuisine, with their subtle Native American, Texan and New Orleans influences.

The Coyote Café features plenty of hand-painted coyotes, and with all the terra cotta and stone, has the feel of a Santa Fe restaurant. Dishes are a bit simpler here, with such items as blue corn enchiladas, Cuban sandwiches, jerk chicken tacos and a variety of creative burritos. The bar serves up wonderful infused rums, and, of course, plenty of tequila-related concoctions.

It's in the Grill Room where you'll really get to examine Miller's signature style, with such dishes as a smoked rainbow trout tostada with saffron cream, chipotle marinated gulf shrimp with sweet buttermilk corn cakes and avocado relish, tamarind coffee seared pork tenderloin with mashed celery root, black-eyed peas and chayote mango slaw (the menu changes seasonally, so you never know what you'll find), and Miller's legendary Cowboy Steak, a giant rib eye with barbecued black beans, red chile onion rings and blackened tomato chipotle slaw that's always on the menu.

Delmonico Steakhouse, Venetian

Those of you looking for food that more closely resembles what Emeril Lagasse cooks on the TV Food Network will find it here, at his Delmonico Steakhouse at the Venetian. While Emeril's New Orleans Fish House at the MGM is excellent, it sometimes lacks the firepower that Emeril has become known for-not just cayenne pepper and pork fat, but his "Emeril-izations" of classic Creole dishes.

But make no mistake, this is foremost a steakhouse. What you'll find here are excellent prime cuts, dry aged and flavorful, with several other menu options that raise Delmonico beyond "classic steakhouse" fare. And since this is Emeril Lagasse, expect plump crawfish in the buttery mashed potatoes, Cajun and Creole appetizers, and oddities like the Delmonico Chicken, carved tableside for two.

The Delmonico is a large, attractive room, more Manhattan than New Orleans, with austere white walls and brown velvet seating that suggest New York in the '70s. Definitely one of the "power restaurants" on the Strip.

Drai's, Barbary Coast

As traditional as the Barbary Coast's classic Michael's is, the opposite holds true for the innovative Drai's, a sleeper of a restaurant a floor below the Strip in what used to be a fast- food outlet. Not so today, with four beautiful, if quirky, dining rooms that play host to a great menu of part-California, part-Provence dishes.

Start with ahi sashimi, layered on phyllo dough with enoki mushrooms, daikon and ginger, or soft-scrambled eggs with a generous dose of caviar, served in the egg's own shell. It's little touches like this, or the glazed Chilean sea bass served with perfectly fried yams, that make Drai's such a treat. Lamb lovers will go crazy for the seven-hour leg of lamb, served with nothing but its own juices. The crispy duck confit with morels and fava beans exemplifies the surprisingly authentic French influence (as does a flawless steak frite).

Jazz aficionados will want to make note of live jazz in Drai's sophisticated library lounge, complete with leopard sofas, modern paintings and a fireplace. High Tea is available, too.

Eiffel Tower Restaurant, Paris

Eiffel Tower Restaurant, Paris

Located on the 11th floor of the replicated monument, the Eiffel Tower is certain to become one of Las Vegas' premier gourmet rooms. With a decor that is best described as metropolitan chic, the restaurant offers a magnificent view that stretches from the MGM to Treasure Island. The metal structure of the Tower is integrated into the design, joining modern urban construction with warm lighting and velvet fabrics. A piano bar with Deco-style sofa seating is a fantastic spot to soak in the view before dinner. (Martinis, anyone? Two? Three?) The menu is comprised of such delicacies as chilled lobster with a creamy garlic sauce, succulent braised quail and a medallion of beef served in a sauce that will have you happily dragging your bread across your plate. Mon Dieu! Reservations are a must.

Emeril's New Orleans Fish House, MGM Grand

Before he was crowned King of the Food Network, Chef Emeril Lagasse was at the MGM Grand, expanding his Big Easy restaurant empire into the desert. Emeril's New Orleans Fish House, the chef's first venture in Las Vegas, was a welcome addition to the food scene in 1994. Looking like an import from the French Quarter, with wrought iron gates and vine-covered brick columns, the specialty here is obviously fish, as evidenced by the large oyster and fish bar that greets guests as they enter (a great spot for lunch or a fast bite).

Emeril has stayed close to Cajun tradition in developing the menu, featuring fresh oysters, pan-fried Louisiana crab cakes, and his famous barbecue shrimp. Entrées continue along a similar path. Pan roasted Gulf snapper on herbed new potatoes with tomato and fennel confit, steamed mussels and Kalamata olives is delicious, as is the andouille crusted redfish served on a bed of creamy grits with an oyster-artichoke cream sauce and fried spinach leaves. Hilda (that's Emeril's mom, as any Emeril addict knows) makes her appearance with Portuguese steamed clams simmered with spicy chorizo sausage, garlic and onions. Decadent desserts, too (think praline crème brulee, or Emeril's signature banana cream pie).

Fiore, Rio

The first of the Rio's restaurants to go all out was Fiore, a sophisticated, metropolitan grill with floor-to-ceiling windows, an exhibition kitchen, bowls of spicy cracked olives on the bar, and a cigar terrace. Although the grilled fare clearly dominates the menu, it offers several Mediterranean-inspired surprises, such as pheasant ravioli in porcini and wild mushroom sauce, or a wonderful roast rack of lamb, crusted and perfumed with rosemary. Intermezzo arrives with a spray of expensive champagne, and a thorough, well-chosen wine list completes the picture. One of the earliest appearances on the "new" Las Vegas culinary scene, and still one of the most appealing.

Fortune, Rio

"East meets best" for an ultra luxe celebration of gourmet Chinese food, accessible from a discreet elevator near the Rio's high-end gaming area. Applying contemporary concepts to Hong Kong and Cantonese dishes, chef Chi Choi has created some wonderful dishes, from pan-fried sea bass in soy sauce to his crispy crab claw appetizers. Expect to sit among high rollers here, but don't let that intimidate you (there's no dress code). This is a wonderfully welcoming restaurant, although it's clear that the Rio's Chinese clientele are the main reason this place exists. That said, this may be the finest Chinese food in the city, even if no one knows about it.

Gatsby's, MGM Grand

The wonderful Deco cocktail lounge and piano bar at the entrance to Gatsby's is only a preliminary attraction to what is arguably one of Las Vegas' top dining rooms. Chef Terry Fong may have departed the restaurant's company, but that doesn't mean his influence is gone. Fong's native Hawaiian, Pacific Rim-focused food has always been excellent, and there's no reason to assume the menu will change (yet). His tower of perfectly crispy sautéed sweetbreads and meltingly soft foie gras with mango Sauternes reduction and dashes of aged balsamic vinegar is still absolutely stunning. The macadamia nut-crusted escolar, served with ginger-cilantro pesto and teriyaki sauce, is wonderful. Likewise for the marinated sea bass with miso-soy glaze and fiery peanut oil. Rumor has it that Gatsby's will soon go classic French, but here's hoping Fong will stay with the menu, at least in spirit. Keep an eye on this one.

Hugo's Cellar, Four Queens

Considered by its loyal following to be the best restaurant in Las Vegas, and one of only two on this list that predates the food revolution of the past ten years, Hugo's Cellar at the Four Queens still knows how to put on a show. The menu may not be terribly haute or culinarily explosive, but the decor, quality and, above all, great service, keep Hugo's somewhere near the top, even if it's gotten a little lost in all that star chef glare.

The restaurant is indeed located in a cellar, or at least a room that pretends to be a cellar. One flight below the chaos of Fremont Street, Hugo's is dark and discreet, with brick walls, wood trim, beveled glass partitions and plenty of soft candlelight. The menu is Continental, a good mix of steaks, chops, fish and fowl-recently upgraded a bit to include "newer" dishes like monkfish and Chilean sea bass. But the salad cart, a veritable salad bar on wheels, is still there, as is the sorbet intermezzo, and the double-tiered tray of chocolate-dipped strawberries and truffles that arrives with coffee. As always, hostess Jean Isbell and sommelier Jon Simmons make you feel like family.

Il Fornaio, New York-New York

Forget the mozzarella-smothered foods of Little Italy's Il Fornaio. The New York-New York version goes straight to the Tuscan heart of Italy, with a well chosen wine list and a great, airy environment. Most of the entrees are grilled or spit-roasted, often served with garlicky sautéed spinach, Tuscan white beans and roast potatoes. A nice selection of pastas and pizzas round out the menu. The snazzy marble bar area is a good choice for solo diners, or couples when the cafe is booked. There's also a lovely patio outside, for "al fresco" dining overlooking the casino.

PS: There's a wonderful bakery right next door, Il Fornaio Panetteria, where restaurant chefs bake their ciabattas from scratch. It also serves as a coffee bar, with long lines during the morning rush for caffeine.

	Isis, Luxor

Isis, Luxor

Isis is a lush, intimate and completely original little restaurant, actually one of the better-kept dining secrets in Las Vegas, and certainly deserving of more attention. Guests approach Isis along a colonnade walk of Caryatid statues and enter through gold-embossed glass "Wings of Isis" doors. Inside, golden stars sparkle on a midnight blue dome, with gilt statues of Egyptian goddesses placed in the center and at the corners of the room.

The food is essentially Continental, though concessions are made to the updated flair of the resort. Appetizers include smoked salmon and buckwheat blinis with creme fraiche and caviar, or poached oysters served over creamed spinach with Pernod. From there, move on to the crispy breast of duck with cassis and ginger, lobster tail baked en croute with seafood mousse in white zinfandel sauce, or a classic veal loin sautéed with sorrel in vermouth. Very romantic, but small enough that reservations should be made well in advance.

Jasmine, Bellagio

Not only is this one of the most stunningly beautiful restaurants at Bellagio, with its European decor and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the fountains, but Chef Philip Lo's interpretations of Hong Kong Cantonese food makes this one of the most incredible Chinese restaurants in the gaming industry. Nominated as one of "America's Outstanding Chefs," it was Lo who introduced San Francisco to the idea of nouvelle Hong Kong cuisine, rooted in tradition but with a distinctly modern flair. Start with tender lobster dumplings or spicy phoenix tail prawns, move on to braised belly ribs, grilled pork chops marinated in rosedew bean sauce, Chinoise scallops with pine nuts and fried sun-dried scallops, or golden crispy chicken stuffed with savory glutinous rice. Sublime from start to finish.

La Louisiane, Orleans

A shock, a surprise and a delight is La Louisiane at the Orleans, a locals casino known more for loose slots and video poker than gourmet food. But Coast Resorts owner Michael Gaughan is obviously onto a trend here, with a family of restaurants that includes Michael's and Drai's at the Barbary Coast, and Primo and Via Veneto at the new Suncoast. Under the competent hand of Executive Chef Selis Bowser, an affable guy who likes to hang out with diners so he can watch their reactions, La Louisiane offers an inspired selection of gourmet Cajun food, updated with subtle French and California preparations. Located in the former buffet, the restaurant is scheduled to undergo a lengthy renovation that will bring the decor up to the level of the food. Keep an eye on this sleeper.

Le Cirque, Bellagio

When it came to Manhattan in the anything goes, three-martini '80s, nowhere were the legends more legendary and the beautiful people more visible than at Le Cirque, Sirio Maccioni's circus-frescoed landmark at the Mayfair Hotel on E. 65th St. Now located at the Sultan of Brunei's New York Palace Hotel on E. 50th St., the new Le Cirque 2000 traded in its '80s insolence for dynamic millennial intensity, in an Adam Tihany-designed interior that is as bold, daring and creative as the menu itself.

To start at the end, there is the legendary crème brulee, a dessert that has become inseparable from Sirio Maccioni, and a point of contention for foodies across the country. There is the paupiette of black sea bass in crispy potatoes with braised leeks and barolo sauce, and the "black tie" sea scallops, layered with black truffles and wrapped in spinach and puff pastry. There is the lobster risotto and foie gras, lamb filet mignon with crushed Yukon gold potatoes, and perfect roast chicken with black truffles under the crispy skin, served with porcini mushrooms and roasted potatoes. And there is the wine list, not as extensive as New York's, but still an impressive collection. Another contender for the "Best in Vegas" crown, and recipient of Casino Player's Reader's Choice award for Best Gourmet Restaurant in Las Vegas. More...