Le Village Buffet, Paris

Le Village Buffet, Paris

In the city's most unique twist to the buffet concept, Le Village Buffet is comprised of seven stations, five of which represent the culinary regions of France. At Provence, for example, guests may select roast duckling or seafood bouillabaisse. At Alsace, veal breakfast sausage and venison stew is served. Beef Bourguignon can be found at Burgundy, while Normandy offers black mussel salad and steamed mussels poulette. Brittany features Camembert cheese mashed potatoes, along with made-to-order dessert crepes, served with fresh berries and whipped cream. At the salad bar, you'll find Alaskan king crab legs, along with an assortment of cheese, fruit and wild mushroom bisque. And at the dessert station awaits French pastries and bananas Foster. Even the seating is innovative. The central area offers a garden theme, while individual salles, themed after the five regions, split the tables into private dining chambers, complete with fireplaces and dedicated servers. The result is a gourmet menu, served in an intimate atmosphere at prices that are just slightly higher than the average Strip buffet.

Lutèce, Venetian

Chef Eberhard Müller's greatest claim to fame was replacing the legendary Andre Soltner at New York's Lutèce after almost 40 years. Lutèce was one of those places with a sense of awe about it, a historic grandeur, like a wartime landmark or jewels in a crown. What makes Müller so remarkable is that he actually improved on it, bringing the menu up to date and refining the look. New Yorkers still can't get over the change.

The Lutèce that opened at the Venetian last year follows in the footsteps of Aureole. The food makes the transition intact, but the design flies in the face of the original. The original Lutèce is, like Aureole, in a flower-filled brownstone on the Upper East Side. The Vegas version is, like Aureole, in a totally modern, ultra-trendy, Adam Tihany-designed room. And, like Aureole, the new version has outdoor seating by the water-but at Lutèce, you're overlooking the Grand Canal, Venetian style, with that infamous volcano across the street exploding every 20 minutes.

Look for classic dishes like poached oysters with caviar and champagne sauce, lobster medallions, smoked duck breast... all the usual suspects. Dinner might involve sautéed sea scallops on a black truffle and celery remoulade with mashed potatoes, crispy black bass with lobster sauce and herbed pasta, or a classic chateubriand for two. Heady food for serious gourmands, who don't mind the frivolity of the design. Sit outside in the cooler months.

Luxor Steakhouse, Luxor

This great steakhouse opened recently, and with so little fanfare that you might stumble onto it and wonder where it came from. There are no surprises on the menu, but the interior is a dream. The walls are all cherry with glowing paintings of Egyptian sunsets, and the faux leopard-upholstered chairs and lighting fixtures look like they came right out of a Colonial British manor. The bar might have been plucked from a luxury 19th Century train car. Naturally, the steaks are all USDA prime, and a few accompaniments-the cream of watercress soup and the stuffed portabello mushroom-are standouts. A beautiful steakhouse.

Michael's, Barbary Coast

Even as the Strip around the tiny Barbary Coast has morphed into a fantasyland of volcanoes, gondolas and pyramids, little has changed at Michael's, one of the last of the classic Vegas restaurants. And don't expect it to vanish any time soon-there may be no other restaurant in Las Vegas whose devotees are so loyal, almost to the point of fanaticism, who would sooner stop coming to Vegas at all than see their favorite restaurant fall to the axe of star chefs and themed chains.

And that's what sums Michael's up. It hasn't bowed to trends or changed its menu (much) in the 20 years it's been around. The stained glass dome still casts a golden glow over the small room, and the plush red velvet banquettes and wood-paneled walls still reflect candlelight from the linen-covered tables. Guests are treated like royalty by tuxedoed hosts, tended to and pampered in a classic style that has mostly been toned down or eliminated in modern restaurants. It's all a bit sycophantic, but that's an integral part of the restaurant's decades-long appeal.

The menu is rooted in classic culinary tradition, with Coquille St. Jacques and baked escargot in pastry as starters, along with several salads, including hearts of palm and Caesar. Entrees range from filet mignon and lamb chops to broiled Maine lobster and Dover sole, prepared tableside, of course. Desserts are of the flaming variety-think cherries jubilee and bananas Foster, served with chocolate-dipped fruit. Forget the star chefs, folks. This is Old Vegas as it's best remembered.

Mon Ami Gabi, Paris

All-day dining and the only Strip-side outdoor seating immediately qualify Mon Ami Gabi at Paris (where else?) as a standout. Inside, a dark bar lined from floor to ceiling with bottles of wine opens into a casually elegant, oh-so-Parisian dining room. Under the direction of award-winning chef Gabino Sotelino, the menu supplements traditional steakhouse fare with such varied items as omelets prepared with French-cured bacon, crepes and quiche. Naturally, there are steaks as well, with the signature dishes served Bordelaise or au poivre in a brandy peppercorn sauce. Open a bottle of wine, order one of the deliciously sauced Steak Frites and linger long enough to catch Bellagio's fountain show several times over.

Napa, The Rio

Jean-Louis Palladin's top-notch gourmet at the Rio is another restaurant that could easily vie for the "Best Restaurant in Las Vegas" crown, with its tranquil, creamy decor, lovely floral murals and gorgeous lighting. An extensive list of wines by the glass is a result of Napa's association with the wine cellar and tasting room two floors below, but those who prefer to order off the menu will find some 600 selections.

Napa is ostensibly a California-France hybrid, but Palladin's French roots are clear in his presentation and choice of ingredients. A celery root risotto with lobster broth is topped by medallions of grilled monkfish. Corned duck breast is served with a ragout of green lentils, and a roast suckling pig tenderloin is surrounded by young leeks and truffles. And if you've ever ventured to wonder what a venison osso bucco would taste like, now's your chance, although be forewarned, the menu changes frequently. Truly one of the best in town.

	Nobu, Hard Rock Hotel

Nobu, Hard Rock Hotel

Chef Nobu Matsuhisa's groundbreaking temples of Japanese cuisine with "Peruvian influences" have already set unmatched standards of excellence in Los Angeles, New York and London. The 1999 opening of Nobu Las Vegas has been widely hailed as a major coup for the Hard Rock Hotel. From squid pasta to miso-infused black cod to creamy, spicy cracked crab and all the usual (and unusual) sushi, Matsuhisa has fashioned a completely original dining establishment. This is fascinating food, but beware-there's a relatively difficult menu to decipher, and the LA/Hollywood/Hard Rock attitude can really get under your nerves. That said, Nobu's dishes are astonishing. The road to paradise may be a bit shaky, but once you get there, you won't look back-you'll only look at the menu to see which direction to head next. Hint: Let your server be your guide.

Olives, Bellagio

Boston import Todd English has brought his critically acclaimed Olives restaurant to Las Vegas, and placed it in a cunning little spot between Armani and Hermès, in the heart of Bellagio's shopping district. Widely regarded as the most irresistible restaurant in Beantown, Olives specializes in what English calls "Interpretive Mediterranean," which means it isn't authentic, but will probably feature any combination of seafood, garlic, tomatoes, olive oil, prosciutto and lemon, most likely on a bed of sautéed greens or next to a twirl of pasta.

Still, his Boston roots come shining through in his luscious white clam pizza and his fondness for Yankee vegetables like butternut squash. Try the cod cake with lobster remoulade and baked beans, or the incredible grilled sirloin with shiitake mushroom glaze, served over bruschetta with country ham, Vidalia onions, fresh peas, Roquefort cream and more of that delicious sautéed spinach.

Whether you choose Provence or Provincetown, you'll be fully energized to return to the rough outside world of Prada, Gucci and Chanel. Great for lunch.

Onda, The Mirage

Chef Todd English has been a hit at Bellagio with his Mediterranean-inspired Olives (see above), and here at Onda, where he consulted in the development of both the restaurant and the menu, he goes straight to the rustic heart of Italy, with great Tuscan concepts. Simple and straightforward, Onda is at its best when the powerful simplicity of perfectly grilled meats and garlic-infused pastas shine through. There's definitely an American twist to some of the dishes, but it all works well in this comfortable, casual restaurant. Make sure you get some of those foil-wrapped vegetables (the French call it en papillote), slit open at the table and cooked in nothing but their own juices.

Osteria del Circo, Bellagio

This is the Maccioni family's loving interpretation of Tuscan Italian food (along with some of Mama Egidiana Maccioni's recipes thrown in for good measure), a direct import from Manhattan's busy midtown location, with a varied menu featuring grilled antipasti, pizzas, pastas (try the papardelle with braised duck and porcini mushrooms, or potato gnocchi with wild mushroom ragout), grilled entrees, tiramisu for dessert, and a daily prix fixe lunch special. Adam Tihany's garish design is loved by some and despised by others, but the food is universally enjoyed. Besides, the view of Bellagio's lake is stunning. Ideal for lunch, since after trying Circo, you'll want to have dinner at Le Cirque.

Oxo, The Regent

The upscale, spa-themed Regent (formerly the Resort at Summerlin) continues to struggle valiantly along, adding new machines, opening high-end gaming areas and trying desperately to make a success of its casino. Yet even with several restaurants having shuttered, a couple of others have achieved tremendous acclaim-particularly Spiedini, a funky, high-end Italian by renowned chef Gustav Mauler. Now, Mauler has moved across the hall and taken over the closed Nevada Nick's Steakhouse, redesigning it, brightening it up, opening up the stunning bar area and developing an entirely new menu. The result is Oxo, a steakhouse and lounge trendy enough to enter the new millennium with ease, but decadent enough to suggest the "old days" of cocktail culture.

Oxo's menu features a combination of superb steak and fresh seafood, all prepared with Mauler's signature creativity. Menu highlights include wood oven-baked jumbo shrimp with a Creole beurre blanc, peppered seared ahi tuna served with a smoked tomato vinaigrette, a wonderful smoked salmon pizza, and a marvelous wine list. Detractors have cited Oxo's limited presentation, but frills are kept to a minimum-it's all about the food at Oxo, which is nothing short of stunning. And, like Spiedini, the service here is flawless.

Picasso, Bellagio

It must be hard on Julian Serrano to play second fiddle to all those Picassos on the wall, especially when for over a decade, his beloved Masa's was widely regarded as the top restaurant in San Francisco. And it's not just the paintings he has to contend with. The restaurant has a stunning lakeside patio that guests rush out to every half-hour or so, to witness Bellagio's spectacular fountain show.

Yet even through all these distractions, Serrano manages to shine. There's only one way to eat here, and that's to experience the tasting menu, with its paired wines. Start with the warm lobster salad, served with potatoes and crispy leeks, a signature dish from Masa's, or the roasted scallops in a saffron beurre blanc. There's a buttery rich foie gras in Madeira sauce with roasted autumn vegetables, a magnificent veal mignon with fresh morels and asparagus, and a truffle encrusted loin of lamb. This is arguably the finest restaurant in town.

Note: Have after-dinner drinks on that exclusive little patio. Even when the fountains aren't going off, you'll have a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower reflected in the water. One of Vegas' most romantic spots.

Pinot Brasserie, Venetian

Joachim Splichal is one of the most celebrated chefs of the Los Angeles area, with his famed Patina consistently ranking at the top of the Southern California restaurant scene. Pinot Brasserie at the Venetian is his immaculately designed version of an authentic Paris bistro, with nearly all of the decoration imported directly from France-including the wooden French door façade from a hotel in Lyon, the copper pots, mirrors, kitchen utensils and Coq d'Or, the large, weathered cast-iron rooster that stands guard at the entry. The food is classic bistro fare, from the French onion soup to the shellfish platters and homey cuts of beef, poultry and game, all prepared with Splichal's impeccable finesse. Pinot Brasserie also features an oyster bar, "al fresco" cafe dining, and a beautifully designed, seductively urbane bar.

Postrio, Venetian

Wolfgang Puck does it again, this time in a more sophisticated environment named after his San Francisco restaurant. However, the similarities stop there. Postrio is located in the Piazza San Marco area of the Venetian's Grand Canal Shoppes, with an outdoor patio that's even better than Spago for watching crowds-with the added benefit of entertainment from strolling Venetian musicians, who wisely keep their distance from the restaurant. With all this Venice stuff going on, you'll be totally unprepared for the luxurious interior, with its plush seating, deep jewel tones and smoky beveled mirrors, all of which still manages to maintain a sense of unlimited energy. How do Puck and his wife, Barbara Lazaroff, keep coming up with these wonders?

Oh, yes, there's also the food, which is classic Puck, albeit a bit on the conservative side (for him). When you're tired of all that multi-culti, Italian-Asian stuff, come over to Postrio for garlic infused steaks, potato pancakes draped with an obscene quantity of smoked salmon, foie gras three ways, and fantastic Austrian Weiner schnitzel. If you're in Vegas for a convention, this is the place to go after a long day at the trade show. There's nowhere better to impress clients.

Prime, Bellagio

Prime is an absolutely stunning restaurant, one floor below Bellagio's grand parade of shops, sharing the lakeside view with Picasso. The seductive room is swathed in cornflower-blue velvet curtains, rare azure marble, and rugs that look like Aubusson tapestries stolen from Buckingham Palace. This is Jean-Georges Vongerichten's first steakhouse, an idea relatively untested by the otherwise diverse chef, whose restaurants range from classic French bistro to Thai fusion. The menu looks a little limited at first glance, but the idea here is to build your own meal. Following a chilled shellfish platter or a dish of carpaccio, guests choose a cut of meat or fish with any of ten different sauces and potatoes. The bar is a Deco delight, one of the best places in town for a martini (or, in honor of Vongerichten's restaurant empire, a Manhattan).

Primo, Suncoast

Located a flight above Vegas' newest casino with an absolutely incredible view of the Strip and Vegas valley is the hot new Primo Steakhouse. If you can tear yourself away from the view, you'll find a clubby, English decor, with plenty of wood trim and soft lighting. There's also a nice bar near the entrance, raised up a bit to appreciate the view. The menu is straightforward steakhouse. Rib eyes, sirloins, chops and filets, all heavy seasoned and beautifully charbroiled. Sides such as sautéed mushrooms, baked potatoes and steamed asparagus are ordered a la carte, and seafood lovers are limited to salmon or a pair of lobster tails. But the real gems here are the view and the new casino's plans to turn this steakhouse into one of the finest in the city (no one's complaining, they're already nearly there).

The Range, Harrah's

Steakhouse fare is treated with Southwestern flare at The Range, Harrah's signature ode to all things beef. Bagel chips (!) and salsa are brought to the table when guests are seated, and oversized steaks are served with an intriguing mix of sauces and chiles. In addition to the excellent surf and turf, The Range offers one of the best dining atmospheres in Vegas. Though the use of rich, heavy wood is a staple of steakhouse decor, the Range details it with ranch-style brands. And you can't beat the view: Every night, as the sun goes down, the blinds on enormous picture windows are lifted, revealing the glittering Strip in all its glory. Adjacent to the restaurant is the Range piano bar, a chic place to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail. If you're a fan of martinis, be sure to ask for the vanilla one, a signature mix at the bar. Classic Harrah's service levels, too.

Renoir, The Mirage

Chef Alessandro Stratta, formerly of the ultra-posh Phoenician Resort in Scottsdale, AZ, has set up shop at The Mirage at Renoir, a superb gourmet room that attempts to duplicate the success of Picasso at Bellagio with a room dedicated to the Impressionist master Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Stratta's cooking is contemporary French, with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients. Starters may include foie gras ravioli with red wine braised ducks and caramelized leeks, or a spicy seared ahi tuna with salad Nicoise and black olive vinaigrette. Braised shortribs are served with horseradish potatoes, shallots and red wine, and roasted baby lamb is accompanied by a vegetable fricasee, almonds and spiced apricots. Reserve enough time for the multicourse degustation menu, served with accompanying wines.

Second Street Grill, Fremont

Pressed to identify the biggest sleeper hit of the Vegas food scene, it would have to be the Second Street Grill at the recently remodeled Fremont. While not exclusively a seafood restaurant, Second Street Grill definitely focuses on finned fare, in delightful Pacific Rim flavors. The restaurant is comfortable and airy, with an attractive blend of woody earth tones and funky lighting. Start the meal with seared scallops or Peking duck and shrimp tacos, and move on to the spicy whole Thai snapper, seared mahi mahi in sesame seeds, or pan-seared Chilean sea bass with spicy peanut crust and soba noodle salad. And then run outside to catch one of the dramatic light shows on the multimillion dollar canopy above the Fremont Street mall.

Shintaro, Bellagio

Another astonishing restaurant from Bellagio; this time it's Japanese food, with Chef Naoki Sakamoto commanding a sushi bar that seems to float on blocks of ice. Behind the bar is a surreal trio of ceiling-high tanks holding nothing but large, gossamer jellyfish, floating and undulating against an inky black background.

When it comes to Japanese food, there isn't much leeway for creativity, so perfectly merged are the flavors of Japanese cooking. Where else but Shintaro can you get lotus root in vinegar miso sauce, or grilled fish with shiitake mushrooms in a clear soup of dashi broth with sake and guzu peel? Sakamoto doesn't disappoint on the traditional Kaiseki menu either, which features several courses of clear soup, sashimi, tempura, grilled meats, Japanese pickles and dessert. A wonderful experience.

Spago, The Forum Shops at Caesars

It's hard to imagine Las Vegas without Spago, but prior to May, 1992, that was exactly the case. When the Forum Shops opened at Caesars, Wolfgang Puck's Spago opened along with it. But even the famous Puck himself had no idea that Spago would be so successful, such a hit with tourists and locals alike, that it would spark a dining revolution that would change the culinary face of Las Vegas. Since Spago opened, some two dozen of America's top chefs have opened restaurants in and around the Strip. Puck has also expanded his desert dining empire, with additional restaurants at the Forum Shops (Chinois), MGM Grand (Wolfgang Puck Cafe), Mandalay Bay (Trattoria del Lupo) and the Venetian (Postrio). But it all started right here, at Spago.

The restaurant hasn't aged a bit, either. It's still as popular as the day it opened, and the food is just as deliciously creative as ever. Accordingly, it's still one of the toughest spots to get a reservation, so book well in advance. The artsy Spago has a cavernous main dining room, a small balcony and a somewhat more laid back "outdoor patio," with a menu more or less limited to Puck's famous pizzas and pasta (the patio is also a great spot to watch the Forum crowds).

Spiedini, The Regent

Spiedini, The Regent

This excellent restaurant is Chef Gustav Mauler's signature dining room at the Regent. One of the top Italian chefs in America and long-time Mirage Resorts exec, Mauler draws on Milanese cuisine for inspiration. Entrees range from Costoletta alla Milanese to classic osso bucco. This appreciation for the sophisticated side of Italy is carried over in the restaurant's decor. You won't find checkered tablecloths or candles stuck in empty bottles of Chianti here. Instead, the room is appointed with artistically displayed examples of colorful Murano glass. Even the chandeliers are hand-blown works of art. The risotto starters are a must, and the wine list, like the service, is fantastic. A bit of a drive from the Strip, but worth the extra miles to see how the well-heeled locals eat.

Star Canyon, Venetian

Dallas star chef Stephan Pyles is widely credited with creating what is now referred to as "New Texas" cuisine, which ostensibly raised lowly "Tex-Mex" cooking to new gourmet heights, while remaining true to its regional roots. Like his culinary compatriot Mark Miller's reexamination of "Southwestern food," Pyles has studied the historical impacts of Mexico, South America, Native America and Louisiana Cajun/Creole on what evolved into "cowboy cuisine." By separating these varied elements and then focusing on them individually, Pyles has introduced inspired food possibilities that had been either overlooked or simply not respected before.

Pyles' Star Canyon at the Venetian re-creates much of his Dallas menu. He offers spit-roasted chicken with Tehuantepecan mashed potatoes, red chile posole broth and creamed rajas, as well as a sublime tamale tart with roasted garlic custard and Gulf Coast crab meat. Paying homage to Texas-sized cuts of beef, one of his signature recipes is a bone-in rib eye with pinto bean and wild mushroom ragout, served with a pile of red chile onion rings. This is among the most exciting, innovative food in the country right now, and the Venetian is fortunate to have him.

Star Canyon is a large restaurant, seating 300 in a festive but upscale "cowboy setting," right down to themed cowboy china, cacti and yellow Texas roses. The ranch style combines contemporary Western decor with a bit of cowboy whimsy to create one of the most unusually designed restaurants in Las Vegas. Combine that with the food, and you're set for a heck of an experience.

Terrazza, Caesars Palace

As Caesars quietly continues its years-long overhaul, two of the more historic names in the Vegas restaurant world have fallen to the axe of renovation: the venerable Palace Court and the theatrical Bacchanal. Most likely, the popular Bacchanal will be back in some form, but that shouldn't stop you from enjoying Terrazza, which replaced Primavera at the same location a few years ago.

All Tuscan tile and wood-burning ovens, Terrazza specializes in rustic Italian bistro fare, from pastas and pizzas to grilled meats and seafood. Best of all is the stunning view overlooking the Garden of the Gods, with a lovely glass-enclosed pavilion that allows for al fresco dining when the weather permits. A plush lounge spotlights jazz bands Wednesday through Sunday evenings.

Top Of The World, Stratosphere

The Top Of The World, a 360-seat revolving restaurant located more than 800 feet above the Strip, offers an unforgettable dining experience. The menu is a collection of salads, steaks and seafood, but you don't really come here for the menu (although the food is quite good). Simply stated, the view is awesome. From up here, the Strip is seen in proportion to the rest of the Vegas valley, which has, over the last decade, become home to over a million people. It is only from this vantage point, looking out toward the Flamingo Hilton, that you can understand why Bugsy Seigel was considered a lunatic to think he could operate a casino in this vast desert wilderness-a wilderness now occupied by tens of thousands of homes, strip malls, movie theaters, a major state university, the largest hotels on earth, and at least a dozen Starbucks.

Note: A reservation will get you right to the top of the Tower, without having to deal with lines. And there's an equally lovely cocktail lounge located on the level above the restaurant. Talk about high spirits!

Valentino, Venetian

Veteran restaurateur Piero Selvaggio, known for cultivating one of the finest wine cellars in the world, has brought his famed Los Angeles restaurant Valentino to the Venetian, featuring an innovative menu that nonetheless remains faithful to the Italian culinary tradition. Valentino focuses on fresh ingredients and revisits traditional recipes. Many of the ingredients are imported from Italy, including white truffles, fresh porcini mushrooms, burrata cheese from Puglia, and fish from the Mediterranean and Adriatic. The degustation menus are intriguing-the "extravaganza" offers fried squash blossoms stuffed with gorgonzola, pickled beef tongue with beets and black truffles, roasted quail and foie gras with polenta flan and Marsala sauce, lasagna with wild mushrooms, and roasted Muscovy duck breast with butter, garlic and honey-pollen extract. Wow! Plenty of fish, as entrees and also as a separate degustation menu. Nestled at the front of the restaurant is Piero's Wine Bar & Grill, which serves simple, quick and lighter-styled foods, particularly grilled pizza and pastas.

Village Seafood Buffet, Rio

The Rio broke culinary tradition with not one but two excellent buffets, the Carnival World and the Village Seafood. And unless you have a line pass or a comp, be prepared to wait a while to get into either of these popular buffets.

The Carnival World was the first Vegas buffet to establish the "action station," a simple concept that involved preparing small amounts of food at a time, with a chef always present to cook more-or even cook to order. Not only did this eliminate the traditional "steam table," it assured that all food was freshly cooked. This "action" buffet idea has been copied at many places, but the Rio's Carnival World is the original.

With the opening of Rio's Masquerade Village came another revolutionary buffet, one that hasn't been copied by anyone (yet). The Village Seafood Buffet has just what you'd expect-plenty of seafood, in all shapes, sizes, temperatures and preparations, every day of the week. Fresh lobsters, oysters, clams on the half shell, king crab legs and jumbo shrimp are all mounded on beds of ice, with a multitude of chefs sautéing, boiling, roasting and frying at "action" stations all around. The lines for this one can be up to three times longer than the Carnival World's lines, but no one seems to mind the wait.