Behind the reception desk hangs two miniature versions of the colorful mural on the propertyâs facade. As an added touch, guests in line are serenaded by a talented piano player.

The lobby will soon feature both retail stores and a VIP lounge.

At the far end of the lobby sits Club Cappuccino, a coffee house featuring fresh, gourmet pastries and specialty coffee drinks. New to Harrahâs Las Vegas, Club Cappuccino has enjoyed a great amount of success in Harrahâs Lake Tahoe and Reno properties.

No wonder. The quality of the coffee beans are monitored by a certified roast master, and specialty drinks, such as Almond Joy Espressos and Monkey Mochas, are available 24 hours a day.

Food frenzy

Food and Beverage was never a strong point at Harrahâs in its smokestack days, but the massive renovation project has overhauled that, too. In addition to Club Cappuccino, five restaurants (four of which were open at press timethe Fresh Market Square Buffet will open in mid-October), are included in the project. They run the gamut from casual to upscale, bringing much-needed dining alternatives to the Las Vegas property.

The Garden Cafe, Harrahâs 24-hour coffee shop, was the first to debut, with a varied, well-balanced menu. In addition to traditional omelets and burgers, the restaurant features barbecued chicken pizzas, Paradise Valley crabmeat dip and Sunburst sweet & sour shrimp.

For a more elegant dining experience, visitors may choose from three distinctly different options.

If youâre in the mood for Eastern cuisine, check out Asia. A glimpse at the menu reveals a creative mix of Chinese, Thai, Indian and Japanese cuisine. Dishes such as the Chilean sea bass, marinated overnight in sake and Japanese miso, are one-of-a-kind in Las Vegas. Another stand out is the Chinese sausage and shrimp, stir fried with egg whites and rice and served in a clay pot (take note, this is an extremely authentic and quite superlative dish). Traditional selections such as Szechwan shrimp and Won Ton soup are available for the less adventurous diner, but Asiaâs strength is in its innovations.

For Italian cuisine, Harrahâs brings to its Las Vegas property its fifth Cafe Andreotti. This is a comfortable room, tastefully decorated to resemble a Tuscan trattoria. Rock archways, a stone fountain and plenty of greenery lend a sense of the outdoors to this charming interior. The seating is spread out, and high, sky-painted ceilings add to the open feel. Counter seating is available at the exhibition kitchen, but the spacious booths are preferable for a comfortable meal.

This is not a traditional Italian restaurant, though the standard vegetable lasagna and veal piccatta are offered. Priced mid-range, the best dishes deviate from the predictable. Certain items on the menu are marked as ãsignatureä dishes, but these are not necessarily the best choices. On the appetizer list, for example, the fried mozzarella is marked. While its presentation is cleverthe mozzarella is shaped like hearts, clubs, spades and diamondsit is hardly a stand out item. Instead, try the Italian potstickers, a wonderful twist on the popular Chinese appetizer.

As for the entrees, diners may create their own gourmet pizza or opt for pasta, seafood or meat dishes. If youâre stumped, ask your server for a suggestion. As with all Harrahâs employees, the waitstaff is incredibly friendly and eager to help, and despite the upscale environment, the service is decidedly unsnooty. Attentive and efficient, guest comfort is of the utmost importance, and this attitude is reflected in the easy-going manner in which the staff interacts with diners. And thatâs precisely what Harrahâs customers clamor for.

The culinary gem of Harrahâs is its new gourmet steakhouse, The Range. Located on the second floor, the restaurant is reached by an elevator in the casino. And this writer was completely shocked by what she saw upon entrancecathedral-high ceilings, towering mahogany pillars, brushed gold accents, subdued lighting from contemporary inset fixtures and floor-to-ceiling windows. Subtle details carry across the Western range theme, such as branding marks on the pillars adjacent to reception, and the gentle notching on the wood-treated tables. But these are subtle details. Nothing is tacky in this beautifully-decorated room. Outside the windows, lighted palm trees frame the center-Strip view of The Mirage, Caesars, Bellagio and, in the distance, the vibrant cobalt and fuschia convergence of the Rio.

It seems that every Las Vegas hotel has to have a steakhouse. And while there are several excellent steakhouses in town, they inevitably blend together, mimicking each otherâs dishes, and offering little in the way of innovation. For this reason alone, The Range is bound to succeedfor, while its menu seems limited, each of the dishes offers something creative. And to accompany them, diners may choose from over 100 wines on the satisfying wine list.

Diners may be inclined to order a traditional shrimp cocktail, but should consider the velvety crawfish chowder or the outstanding roasted poblano pepper stuffed with grilled shrimp and served on a bed of tangy salsa.

Entrees are predictably of the beef variety (this is, after all, a steakhouse), but even here, The Range puts a twist on the standards. The 12 oz. filet mignon is served with the bone in, a cut not typically seen, and one which adds considerable flavor to the meat. Prepared with a balsamic reduction, it is an excellent choice.

From the seafood selection, the T-bone halibut is another rare cutso much so, that The Range is the only restaurant in town to serve it.

Each of the entrees is served with the vegetable of the day, a choice of Caesar or house salad, mini baked or horseradish mashed potatoes, and cabernet mushrooms. Fresh baked loaves of sourdough bread, served with a remarkably savory apricot-basil butter, are brought to the table, and salad dressings include baked potato dressing (similar to ranch but with bacon and chives), and a low-fat white zinfandel.

People are already talking about The Range. One Harrahâs customer, exiting the elevator, exclaimed that it was ãincredible.ä And a cashier in Carnaval Corner stated that people she had talked to werenât just saying it was good, they were raving over it. Theyâre both right. The Range offers a unique, elegant dining experience, combined with a great view, and brings Harrahâs Las Vegas up to culinary speed with its competition.

Bad news, good news

A massive part of the Harrahâs project was the addition of a 35-story tower, housing 644 standard rooms and 50 suites. The elevators to the tower are conveniently located directly off the lobby. Unfortunately, thatâs about the best thing you can say about the addition.

The standard rooms are comfortable, meaning the bed isnât too hard and the shower pressure is more than a trickle, but for all the monumental changes this property has undergone, the overall impression of the new tower is disappointing. One Harrahâs regular, staying in the new tower, complained that the rooms are smaller than the old ones. Even without a direct comparison of the two, it isnât hard to believe. The furniture (an armoire, desk, table and chairs) seems cramped in the allotted space. But even this isnât as disturbing as the garish design choices.

On the upside, the new tower offers superlative views of the Las Vegas Stripmany provide an amazing vantage point for the exploding volcano across the street.

But enough of that. If guests want to see the best Harrahâs has to offer, the key is to simply get out of the room. New amenities await at every turn. A brand new spa is soothing and decadent, a beautifully appointed haven of quiet luxury. A marble entrance gives way to a long, horseshoe-shaped juice bar, at which guests may relax with a refreshing (and healthy!) beverage after workouts or between treatments. The full-service salon features hair styling, manicures and pedicures, in addition to a complete list of pampering treatments, including massage, hydrotherapy and aromatherapy. This is a brand new amenity for Harrahâs, one which offers its guests a higher level of service and megaresort-style comforts.

Classically Harrahâs

Even with all the changes at this Las Vegas property, there are some things that, fortunately, never change.

Harrahâs has long been a leader in customer service, its employees models of hospitality. This is as true now as it ever was. The friendly, courteous spirita hallmark of Harrahâs nationwideis expressed in every new and shining corner of the property. And, when it comes right down to it, the level of service each guest experiences at Harrahâs would surely ensure the propertyâs success, with or without the renovation.

The difference is, there is a new twinkle in the eyes of the staff, a sense of pride in their property that is unmistakable, and an eagerness to fulfill Harrahâs promise of ãa great time, every time.ä