For the past ten years of its boomtown, rags-to-riches existence, Laughlin has thrived on a reputation for three things: cheap rooms, low stakes and senior citizens. Now, as the decade draws to a close, add a fourth item to that list: resiliency.
     Gaming's little boomtown on the Colorado River has changed a great deal, in ways it could never have foreseen in the heady years of double-digit growth. It has experienced openings and closings, bankruptcies, waylaid developments and competition in its most important markets.
     Yet the town is nearly as strong and vital in 1999 as it was in 1989. Room construction has halted, to be sure, and there are no plans for new resorts. But that's just fine with Laughlin's loyal gamblers. In fact, they'd prefer to keep it that way.

History
Laughlin's road to riches began in 1987, when Circus Circus Enterprises opened its legendary Colorado Belle, a giant paddlewheel riverboat that seemed to float on the river (this was five years prior to the launch of the first real gambling riverboat in the nation's heartland). Prior to that, Laughlin was little more than a dusty strip of desert on the Colorado River÷a bit south of Davis Dam, just across the river from the equally dusty town of Bullhead City, Arizona, and with little more to look at than Don Laughlin's Riverside Hotel Casino, serving boaters since 1966.
     The Belle lit the spark that caused the Laughlin explosion. With loose slots, cheap food and friendly folks at the helm, the Colorado Belle set out to lure the Arizona and southern California markets away from Vegas, presenting itself as an alternative vacation. And as Vegas exploded, more and more gamblers÷particularly the older ones, with smaller bankrolls and more leisure time÷decided that Laughlin had become what glitzy Vegas had ceased to be.
     When Circus Circus released their earnings reports for the Belle and its sister property, the Edgewater, gaming's heavy-hitters scrambled to secure the last available parcels of land on the river. On Laughlin's rocky beaches, they discovered a gold mine.
     Within three years, the Pioneer, Ramada Express, Harrah's and Flamingo Hilton opened their doors. Rather than build from the ground up, Mirage Resorts (then Golden Nugget Corp.) purchased the Del Webb Casino, and turned it into the Golden Nugget.
     Laughlin and Bullhead City, where most casino employees live, was off and running. Today, Bullhead City has a population of 30,000, and is Arizona's most rapidly-growing community. Even Laughlin has a population approaching 10,000 residents÷nearly all of whom cater to the estimated five million guests who visit Laughlin annually.
     And not all of those guests drive to Laughlin. A $23 million airport facility on the Arizona side of the river accommodated almost 150,000 patrons last year. And while several flights are chartered through Sun Country and Sun West, most are America West flights via Phoenix, which offers about four, one-hour flights a day to and from Laughlin. If you can fly to Phoenix, you can fly to Laughlin.

Maturing
If Laughlin today seems more sober, perhaps a tad more professional, that's because it has grown up. With the explosion of Vegas local casinos, Indian casinos throughout Arizona, and border towns like Primm and Mesquite positioned to grab highway guests before they even drive 50 yards into Nevada, Laughlin has had to deal with competition from literally all directions.
     But that's not necessarily a bad thing. Laughlin has never had a clearer picture of its guests' needs, desires and expectations. Slot clubs have become as sophisticated as those in Las Vegas and Atlantic City, and all the newest games can be found on the casino floors. There's even a full-scale outlet mall in the center of Casino Drive. The food is still cheap, but the quality is markedly improved. In fact, Laughlin has two of the finest gourmet restaurants in the state, and at least one superior steakhouse. The rooms are also cheap, but they have the same first-class amenities that guests would expect to find in any destination resort. And the employees are honestly among the friendliest in the gaming industry.
     But what really sets Laughlin apart is the Colorado River. Nearly every casino has windowed bars and restaurants that face onto it, and rooms are priced based on their view of it. Charming little water taxis shuttle players up and down the river, and guests stroll the Riverwalk that connects the central properties.
     You haven't seen Laughlin until you've watched the full moon rise over the violet mountains, reflected in the soft ripples of the river as it winds its way through the Sonoran Desert and empties into the Gulf of California.
And then played the slots.